Wine as part of Polish identity in early modern times. Constructing wine culture in non-wine countries
[ 1 ] Ośrodek Historii Kultury Materialnej Średniowiecza i Czasów Nowożytnych, Instytut Archeologii i Etnologii Polskiej Akademii Nauk | [ P ] pracownik
2022
rozdział w monografii naukowej
angielski
EN The cultural history of wine is, above all, the history of the circulation of ideas about wine and its consumption as well as their representation. This chapter will examine the functioning of wine in a non-wine country, from the conditions of its manufacture to the uncertain application that characterises its reception. The attitude of the citizens of the Republic of Poland to imported wines was unique, in particular with regard to those from Hungary and France. In the country of beer and vodka, wine not only became a symbol of prestige and elitism but was also closely related to identity. Polish drinking was defined by the occasional, ritualistic and oppressive consumption of alcohol, and rejection of this tradition in the second half of the eighteenth century could be considered an attempt to distinguish oneself, a manifestation of otherness or the assumption of a foreign identity and, as a result, was subject to negative evaluation. This was the period of the decline of Sarmatian culture and the formation of new consumption patterns, which led to significant changes in the Polish drinking culture. Hungarian wines were symbolically considered ‘Polish’ while all the others, with French liquors at the forefront, were viewed as a new-fashioned, cosmopolitan and foreign element. Wine as an element of identity was particularly emphasised at a time when Poland was losing its independence. At that time, wine was blamed for the country’s downfall. On the other hand, consumption of Hungarian wine was a manifestation of nostalgia.
2022
155 - 164
50
75